jueves, 19 de noviembre de 2009

Meditaciones sobre el vino de Jerez


A partir de septiembre de 1954 la denominada Cátedra del Vino de Jerez solía organizar una conferencia, en el marco de la Fiesta de la Vendimia, donde un personaje señero de la cultura del país disertaba sobre, como no podía ser de otra manera, el vino de la zona. El paso inexorable del tiempo ha hecho a día de hoy que algunas de aquellas intervenciones no nos hayan llegado, pero en cambio otras tuvieron más suerte y con el subtitulo de “lecciones” fueron publicándose entre los años 1954 y 1959 en los talleres de Jerez Industrial con el impulso de la Junta Oficial de la Fiesta de la Vendimia. La serie a que me refiero hoy permanece como una reliquia de otros tiempos en los anaqueles de la Biblioteca Municipal de Jerez, pero para el curioso en la historia local y, sobre todo, en ese producto que ha hecho a la ciudad universal, el vino, es todo un descubrimiento la lectura de unas páginas en las que se recogen distintas visiones sobre el jerez; visiones como la del Dr. Marañón (“El vino de jerez y los otros”), el diplomático José Félix Lequerica, el ex alcalde de la ciudad Tomás García Figueras, Julio Caro Baroja o el eminente endocrinólogo, pionero de la medicina nuclear en España, Blanco Soler. Algunas de estas conferencias, las primeras, se celebraron en el recinto del entonces cine Maravillas, finalmente se decidió a partir del año 1957 trasladarlas al marco más apropiado de la Bodega La Concha. Sin minusvalorar ninguna de aquellas intervenciones, me llamaron poderosamente la atención especialmente la titulada “El jerez visto desde las embajadas” de Lequerica: una visión singular de la diplomacia española cuando en plena dictadura trataba de salir del aislamiento internacional; también esa “meditación andaluza”, como subtituló Julio Caro Baroja a su intervención oficialmente denominada “El vino y la civilización Mediterránea”. Quizás, de todas maneras, el valor de estos textos, de estas meditaciones, parafraseando a Caro Baroja, esté en la información que hoy nos proporcionan en su conjunto, su visión multidisciplinar sobre el vino de jerez, que como tantas otras cosas pudieron ser palabras que se llevara el viento, si no hubiera mediado la previsión de darlas afortunadamente a la imprenta. Ramón Clavijo Provencio

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